February 2002

In the hustle and bustle of our daily lives, it's all too easy to forget to slow down and savor the more subtle and esthetic of life's pleasures. With so many demands on our time and pocketbooks, it becomes more difficult each day to tune out the collective, sniggering laughter of Ronald McDonald, the Hamburgler, Colonel Sanders and the rest of that rascally entourage. But we all know that the very best in life is often found on a blank page in a big, fat schedule book, or at the end of a small and rambling road that took hours to traverse.

Occasionally, though, the trick is just to get stark naked and wet with a good chum or two. I'm referring, of course, to embracing the most revered of the recreational arts among Japanese of true refinement, the onsen.

Meaning "hot spring", onsen are not merely random bathhouses situated willy-nilly in residential neighborhoods teeming with a disproportionate number of elderly naked people. This kind of place is typically called a sento, or public bath. An onsen, is defined by drawing its water from a spring in the earth which is usually naturally heated and high in mineral content? as well as being a place teeming with large numbers of the naked elderly. Certainly, I'm a big fan of sento, combining a lively atmosphere of local community gossip with a nice steamy bath for usually under 300 yen. But it is the process and ambiance of the onsen which has remained such an institution in Japan and has become so personally dear to me.

Living in Kansai, and particularly Wakayama, we onsen enthusiasts are spoiled rotten. This area of Japan is particularly prolific, featuring a vast selection of onsen with varying historical significance and esthetic notoriety. They all have one thing in common, though.

Most Japanese believe that onsen have pronounced medical and physiological benefits, and they certainly won't hear any opposition from me. The past several months of weekly onsen excursions have coincided with the best health. I've enjoyed in almost three and a half years of living in Japan. In addition to improved circulation, increased energy, and the virtual disappearance of chronic joint pain, my sleep quality is 100 percent better and my skin is always as smooth as a baby's butt. However, those intangible, spiritual benefits are almost as fulfilling as the physical ones. A prolonged bathing and rest cycle leave me with a feeling of relaxation which lasts for days.

Here are a few gold nuggets I've come across worthy of a look:
Imori Sanso in Naga-cho is at the very summit of Imori mountain and accessible only by car or hiking, the former of these a very harrowing, nail-biting affair. If you make it alive, you're treated to a view of the valley stretching all the way from your bath to the ocean. You can also use a special herbal sauna called a kamaburo, which you will love if you're not claustrophobic or afraid of the dark! A little expensive at 1,300 yen, but well worth it.

Ryujin Onsen, in Ryujin-mura is one of the grand-daddies of them all. Rich in history and scenic beauty, this place will delight you. Along with springs in Shimane and Gunma, Ryujin is one of three supposed onsen in Japan thought to possess bijin no yu, or legendary beautifying water. Admission is 600 yen, a bargain.

If you would like to learn more about over fifty onsen in Wakayama, Nara and Mie, and can read Japanese, check out:
http://www2.ocn.ne.jp/~yumekobo/onsenmeguri.htm

This site lists prices, hours of business, and directions to all of them, as well as descriptions and recommendations.

Robert B.W. Faulconer

Posted on February 2002 in the following categories: Places | TrackBack(13)